When the refugee ‘spirit’ of Bhootnath Bhaduri(of Bhooter
Bhabishyat fame)goes Iilish shopping
….the Bengalis understand..Only the sublime taste of this delectable fish could
tempt the departed.
My earliest memories of Iilish are those of accompanying my father
as a little girl to the local fish market on a “Robbar Shokaal”. I would wondrously observe the many people hovering
around for the prized Hilsa.
I later understood their reasons when I lost myself in the
heavenly taste of the homemade Shorshe Iilish,
(redolent of mustard oil and green chillies aplenty) or helped myself with a
double serving of Iilish paturi at a “biebari”. The unmatched flavor of this delicacy
made me forgive its infuriatingly bony
nature.
Well lets say the annual monsoon is another time of the year
when the average Bengali would not mind spending the extra penny. …and it has
nothing to do with Durga pujo or Poila Boishakh.
It is all about savouring the sinfully fulsome taste of the Bengalis’ favourite
fish.
The Hilsa has forever been a bone(cough!) of contention
between the “e paar” and “o paar” bongs with each claiming their side of Hilsa
as the best. Whether this judgement is inspired by palate or patriotism is yet
to be known.
However, this superiorly revered fish has been facing the
threat of extinction lately. Long story short, we Bengali’s could be denied our
Iilish very soon (that’s barbaric!!!!).
So certain international organizations entrusted with the job of protection of Shad
(various species of Hilsa) around the world are requesting the people(read Bengalis)
to reduce consumption.
The truth is IIlish
has ruined us for other fishes. If IIlish
does become extinct, Bengalis will never be the same, ‘e paar’ or ‘o paar’
notwithstanding. Could we really be “sensible(?!)” Iilish eaters? …Only time will tell.
Recent reports are of
dwindling stocks in the Ganga delta, thus making the situation pretty
delicate. If we Bengalis are not careful… this delicious fish, bhapa, bhaaja, paturi or
otherwise would only be food for our memories in the near future.